Magic Monastery
By Yin Wyn
Photo: Sonny Nyein

There
are so many hidden treasures in Myanmar that even in this modern age you
come across monuments that few people apart from the surrounding villagers
have seen it. New roads that connect the bigger towns pass not far from
places that before one might have to trek for days to see. One of them is
charming, magical monastery hidden half an hour’s walk away from the road
between Kyaing Tong and Maing Lar. About two thirds of the way out of
Kyaing Tong, which would be about 37 miles, a trek leads off into the wild
bush to the village of Wa Nyut. The Lwe La race lives there in long
houses, of the Wa-Palaung sub-group, which includes Wa, Lawa, Lwe La and
Sanhton races.


The
pride of the village is a wooden monastery over a hundred years old,
carved in places and with a double super-imposed roof. The elaborately
decorated ceiling is lifted by huge red-lacquered poles. In the hall is a
Shan-style Buddha image of excellent workmanship, cared for by three monks
of Gon Shan race. A little brick pavilion at the back that is very likely
the Ordination Hall has colourful paintings on the doors and on the
interior walls, showing the scenes from the Jataka stories. The style is
vastly different from the central Myanmar religious art.
The villagers gladly use their earnings to maintain their beautiful
monastery while they live in longhouses, one to each family. Their costume
is black and even the turbans are of this colour. The men wear tattoos
from their waist to the thighs in designs that are wider-spaced then those
found on other races. They are farmers and their diet is mostly grain and
vegetables, with meat reserved for special occasions. Their grain is
stored in individually owned thatch and bamboo graneries kept outside of
the village. These silos are not locked and they are surprised that in
towns people lock up their possessions. Here, nobody steals even if the
silos are kept away from the village. If there is a fire in the village,
they say, this way their food is safe.
What they use they make for themselves such as the cloth woven on strapped
looms called Jut Khote. This most primitive form of weaving found all over
the world is part of their traditions, one of the many that they keep
alive.
